Mary Lou Andre

Fashion Q & A: Casual Pants for Work Q: In the warmer months, my company’s dress code allows for more casual attire. Even though jeans and capris are allowed from Memorial Day to Labor Day, I think they’re too casual and don’t plan to wear them. Do you have any insights into what makes certain casual pant choices too casual for the office? A: Many of our private clients who work outside the home have a healthy selection of casual pants in their wardrobes. Many of them report getting ready for work and staring at them, wondering if they can (or should!) wear them on the job. The following guide will help you decide whether to slip on casual pants or whether to leave them at home when dressing for work. Remember, common sense prevails. Check with your HR department if you need some more clarification about how any of these fabrics and styles fit into your particular business culture. Jeans: Jeans have come a long way in the century-and-a-half since Levi Strauss secured the pockets of his “waist overalls” and sold them from his San Francisco dry goods store. These days, jeans come in a plethora of cuts, colors and styles, and are the garment of choice for a variety of casual situations. In many industries, jeans, in any color, remain inappropriate for most business situations. The problem is that while some folks look great in them and they understand the importance of making sure they are presented professionally, others will always look sloppy and, well, too casual in them. Also, you have no control over how customers and colleagues view jeans. If your office does allow jeans, be smart about how you present yourself in them. Khakis: With the casualization of the American workforce over the past decade, khaki pants are not just worn in the warmer months anymore. In fact, entire industries claim them as their unofficial “uniform” all year round. If you choose to wear yours for work on business casual days, be sure they are in excellent condition. If you look like you are ready to rake your lawn in them, they are probably too casual for even the most relaxed business environment. Khakis made out of 100% cotton generally do not wear as well as those made of lightweight wool, or a combination of a synthetic fabric (like polyester) with the cotton. If you do choose to wear 100% cotton styles, consider having them dry cleaned if you aren’t disciplined enough to keep them wrinkle-free on your own. Dry cleaning can also give them a longer shelf life. Capris: Capri pants (generally defined as ending mid-calf) are considered a very casual summer dress pant choice and are not the best pant length to wear in most business environments because they tend to scream “take me to the beach, please!” Having said that, a cropped pant (defined as ending just above the ankle) can be okay for work if they are presented professionally. An open toe, business-appropriate shoe can give cropped pants a more professional look than overly casual or overly dressy sandals, especially if they are paired with a well-coordinated business-appropriate top or jacket.

Fashion Q & A: Nail Polish for the Office Q: What color nail polish is appropriate for the office? I tend to prefer dark shades, like a classic red. However, I recently found a very dark color that I love, but I wonder if it’s ok? It’s from OPI and it’s called Lincoln Park After Dark (it’s referred to as a midnight purple.) I would even say it comes out little darker (closer to black) than how it seems in this picture. Is this ok? A: Overly dark nail polish shades are a distraction in most work places. The OPI color Lincoln Park After Dark falls into this category. Save this color for vacation, special events and date nights! We advise our corporate clients to choose pale neutral shades that are more in keeping with a professional look. French manicures are also work well in a corporate environment. If you like darker colors look for a soft red or soft brown. Your nail color should be a part of your overall polished look and not the thing that stands out in a flashy manner.

Fashion Q & A: Pilling Fabrics Q: I recently updated my work wardrobe for winter with several knit pieces in bright colors from Banana Republic. They label says Italian merino (my all-time favorite sweater fabric!) but upon more carefully reading the label, I see that the merino wool is blended with rayon and polyester as well. I have noticed that after a few wearings, the fabric is starting to pill under the arms and where my bag rubs on it. Since I have had not very much success with sweater stones and pill remover devices, I’m wondering what your advice is on pilling fabrics? Many thanks in advance for your reply. A: There definitely has been a drop in quality of fabric over the past few years so you are wise to read the fabric care label carefully. For instance, there is a reason why 100% cashmere is usually more expensive. It has not been mixed with less expensive fibers and therefore holds up better when properly cared for. Less expensive wools (ie merino) are not as luxurious. When you add synthetic blends (like polyester), they tend to be softer and actually hold their color better, attracting many consumers to them. They often are less durable with synthetic additions to them. I think this is what you are experiencing with the Banana brand. No matter where they get their wool sweaters, we tell our clients to dry clean these pieces for at least the first year, even if the tag says hand and machine washing is okay. After that, if they want to hand wash an item, we suggest they turn the items inside out, place them in a zippered lingerie bag, wash on the gentle cycle and then lay flat to dry. Be sure to properly understand your clothing labels. “Dry Clean Only” means just that, but “Dry Clean” often means you can hand wash too. For the record, I only dry clean my sweaters. If I have questions about any garment, I consult with my good friends at Anton’s Cleaners before I do anything! As a professional, I suggest you establish a two-way dialog with your cleaners too!

Fashion Q & A: Hiding a Thickening Waist Line Q: My waist line is thicker than ever! Even though I weigh only a few pounds more than as I did last year, many of the tops and sweaters I used to love wearing this time of year now seem to be calling unflattering attention to my bulges. Do I have to get rid of all of my tops to avoid this new figure challenge or are there some tricks to wearing them in a more flattering way? A: We feel your pain! As we age, our bodies change in many different ways. Thickening waist lines are where many of us see it first. While you might want to shop for some tops that provide a looser fit (Eileen Fisher, Chicos and JJill are brands that come to mind that offer a relaxed fit for a variety of sizes), here are some of our best tricks to make what you already have look better: Get Fitted. If you have not been fitted for a new bra in a while, make it a point to do so. You can literally take 5-10 pounds off your mid-section with the proper support and lift, especially if you are short-waisted which many thick-waisted women are. If your mid-section weight gain is not too dramatic (and it does not sound like yours is), new bras should also shift the fit of the tops in a more flattering way. Camisoles Work Wonders. While you are in the underwear department, ask your fitter to educate you about what’s new in shape wear. Every brand under the sun now offers camisoles and other liners that are geared towards slimming the middle. Some women don’t mind extra support. The Spanx brand is known for this type of foundation. Others find these enhanced products to be too uncomfortable and restrictive. We find even a slim camisole with a small percentage of lyrca or spandex can smooth you out, especially when paired with the right bra. To tuck or not to tuck. If you are currently tucking your tops in, untuck them and pair them with a boot-cut pant or skirt with a slight flare at the knee to instantly relax your look and call attention away from your middle. Your torso will look longer and thinner — promise! If you’d like a little more waist definition, try some big, bold belts with this type of look. If they are wide enough, belts can often provide coverage for unwanted weight gain while adding style. Camouflage by Layering. Jackets, sweaters, vests and other layering pieces are great for hiding waist weight. Long scarves draped loosely over tops that are tight can hide a bulging mid-section beautifully and are very much is style right now. The Magic of Dark Tops. Finally, many of your darker tops are probably concealing your mid-section weight better than you think. Light-colored tops obviously draw more attention to all parts of your upper body, especially the mid-section. You can probably retire many of these for good. Even if your darker tops feel “clingy” — chances are, no one else will notice!

Fashion Q & A: Packing for a Cruise Q: I’ve enjoyed your presentations over the last few years at two Raytheon sponsored events and I look forward to receiving and reading the e-mails from Dressingwell.com. I’m writing today to ask for advice on what to wear on a 7-day cruise (my first ever). We will be heading to St. Thomas, San Juan and the Bahamas, and I will be checking a suitcase. A: Have a wonderful time. Here are a few pointers for you: Consult your cruise line to determine how formal the dinners are. If your dinners are formal, bring at least two formal dresses, i.e., floor length. You may also be able to wear semi-formal, i.e., knee length. A lightweight shawl, wrap or pashmina would work well if the evenings are cool. For daytime sightseeing on the islands, wear a sundress or long Bermuda-style shorts in white or khaki with a sleeveless blouse or colorful tee shirt and flat sandals that are good for walking. White pants/capris are a favorite of mine. You can dress them up or down, depending on the occasion, and they work with any color. For a dressier look, pair them with a kitten heel sandal in red, navy or brown, a silk top and oversized silver or gold earrings with a bangle/cuff bracelet. Wear a flat sandal and a lightweight knit or cotton top for a more casual look. A cover-up for your bathing suit, a hat, sunglasses and, of course, don’t forget the sunscreen!

Fashion Q & A: Beige Shoes Q: I understand that white shoes and purses go away after Labor Day. What about wearing beige shoes and purses into fall? A: We love beige shoes and bags after Labor Day as long as they are well-coordinated with the rest of your outfit. In early September, I met with a sharply dressed business woman on a moderately warm and sunny day who had on a pair of traditional beige pumps (i.e. closed-toe and closed-back) with a chocolate brown skirt and a beige, brown and turquoise floral blouse. Nylons were not worn and were not necessary as her skin was still tan from the summer. The beige pumps actually worked really well with her skin tone. Be sure yours do too. The shoes were leather (a better choice than wearing beige fabric shoes in the fall) and the weight (i.e., on the chunky side) and warm undertones of her gold accessories further complimented the weight and color of her shoes. In my own wardrobe, I have a light beige hobo bag that I wear in the fall with my jean jacket, metallic gold flats and a variety of printed skirts and dresses in earth tones. The bag has dark brown stitching which gives it a little more fall clout as opposed to a more light and summery beige. No matter the season, it’s important to note that if you decide to wear light colored shoes and bags, they can look super cheap if they are not made by a decent designer. Hope these tips help. Enjoy your beige footwear and bags into October!

Fashion Q & A: Nude Hose Q: Now that spring is here, I’d like to lighten my legs up a bit. I’m having a hard time finding a few great pairs of nude hose…everything I try on makes me feel like I have that “orange-y” look going on. I’ve been told that Donna Karan has a great nude selection — but I can’t afford their prices. Any suggestion for affordable nude hose that will look great? A: Hanes makes great hosiery that it is more affordable than some of the designer brands. The Hanes hosiery brand that we frequently recommend for many of our clients is called Silk Reflections which has a silky, sheer finish. We like the color “Little Color” which is one of the most natural looking colors in hosiery. Give them a try! Finally, load up on tops, a shawl and a variety of shoes and you’ll have several looks from the same base pieces. Check out the “Advice” section of our web site for more articles on how to strategically build an interchangeable and multi-purpose wardrobe!

Fashion Q & A: What is Capsule Dressing Q: I’ve just found your site and I love it already. I am building a new wardrobe from scratch and I’ve heard color capsule dressing (or clothing capsule dressing) is a good way to begin. I am a mom so I dress casual most of the time including jeans, but occasionally dress up for dinner, a show or a play. Have you heard of building your wardrobe this way and if so how do I begin? A: Capsule dressing is an effective wardrobe strategy. It is the practice of building a wardrobe with interchangeable items that mix and match well. Start with a pantsuit — black is an obvious good choice because of its day to evening appeal. Next, add a skirt from the same manufacturer in the same color and fabric as the pantsuit. A long skirt will give you more versatility since it can be both casual and/or dressy in its presentation depending on the top and shoe you wear it with. If you can find a dress that can be worn under the jacket or alone, grab that too. Like the skirt, be sure the dress is from the same manufacturer and from the same dye-lot as the pantsuit to ensure that it will work with or without the jacket. A classic sheath dress (either sleeveless or with a short sleeve) will give you the most wear from year to year making it a true investment. Finally, load up on tops, a shawl and a variety of shoes and you’ll have several looks from the same base pieces. Check out the “Advice” section of our web site for more articles on how to strategically build an interchangeable and multi-purpose wardrobe!

Fashion Q & A: Wearing Black Jeans to Work Q: I ordered the “Addressing the Dress Code” reference material from your organization. It was a wonderful tool in setting up our dress standard. However, I have a question about one issue. That is jeans. I would define our dress standard as business casual, but we are a customer-based company and need to project a professional image. We have allowed nice colored jeans (i.e. green, lavender, etc.). But in our dress standard, we have asked that employees do not wear black/blue jeans, except on casual day (Friday). Are black jeans acceptable attire in a business environment? What is your professional opinion on jeans? Any advice on addressing this in our dress standards? A: Glad to hear that you received our materials and that they have been helpful in shaping your policy. It’s my opinion that jeans are too casual for the business environment you describe. The problem is that while some folks look great in them and understand the importance of making sure they are presented professionally, others will always look sloppy and, well, too casual in them. Also, you have no control over how customers view them. Many people (especially some over 50) think jeans are a sign of disrespect. They were never allowed to wear them to school, never mind to work. No matter the color, they are generally thought of as too casual in most professional service environments, which I believe is the category that your organization falls into. Some high tech companies we work with allow jeans on Fridays which is fine in their business environment. Hope my insights help shed some light on your particular situation. It’s tough to take away something that is currently being allowed. Maybe you can put out a memo that states your concern with jeans and asks folks to refrain from wearing them. “Asking” as opposed to “telling” often yields better results!!

Fashion Q & A: Summer Casual for an Off-site Business Meeting Q: I’m male and work in a conservative business environment. Suits and ties are mandatory Monday through Friday, even in the summer. I am scheduled to attend an off-site “business casual” meeting for three days this month. I am told that jackets are not required and the setting will be informal, with maybe a round of golf the last day. Can you help me figure out what to wear? Thanks. A: A safe bet in the summer for this type of business meeting where it has been clearly articulated that the dress code has been significantly relaxed is to bring a few pairs of khaki-colored trousers and a few equally polished polo shirts. We do not recommend wearing polos with logos not associated with your company, even in this informal setting. Finish the look with a matching belt and shoe. Socks are always appropriate and expected in business. To properly plan your golf attire, check in with the resort where you will be playing to get clarity about their dress standards. Khaki-colored pants or shorts with a polo shirt are an easy way to get this look right and will cut down on what you will be packing for the trip. We recommend having a golf jacket with you in case the weather is cool or it rains. Golf shoes complete the look. Refrain from wearing sneakers!